SA4x4 - Overland Adventure Magazine

I own a ‘01 Hilux KZ-TE 3.0 DC. I bought the vehicle second-hand, fully kitted and with approximately 170 000 km on the clock. The vehicle had never given me a day’s trouble until December ‘09 when it showed its first signs of overheating – particularly when pushed hard up steep gradients. I took the vehicle to Silverton Radiators and they confirmed that it had a cylinder head leak.

Is it possible to remove the stabiliser bars on my Datsun Patrol pick-up ZG60H? I’d like to gain better axle articulation. Will this compromise the vehicle’s ride quality and safety? Also, if I transfer the leaf blades to the top of the axle will I gain enough clearance to fit 31” tyres? Lastly, can the rear leaf-blade cluster be reduced for a smoother ride, and again, better suspension flex?
Stephan van Tonder

I own an ’05 Colt 3.0 V6 that’s done 119 000 km. I absolutely love my bakkie, but it’s got one elusive problem: every now and then it makes a loud rattling sound when started, almost like the motor’s full of loose nuts and bolts. The noise used to persist for up to 10 seconds, but lately it’s gotten worse and now lasts for about a minute or so.
To me, it sounds like the valve lifters are rattling until they get oil, but if I switch the engine off and immediately start it again, the noise disappears. To date I’ve done the following to the bakkie: replaced the cylinder head, fitted new valves, replaced the valve lifters and had the belts checked.
At this stage I don’t know what to do. In truth, I don’t think the problem’s terminal as the vehicle pulls well, uses no oil and the motor runs silky smooth. I’ve even taken it up to 170 km/h to be sure that nothing’s ready to pop. However, I’m concerned that something may go when I’m on a long-distance trip and far from home. Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Warren van der Merwe

We own a ’97 Isuzu KB280 DC with 285 000 km on the clock. It runs beautifully and is definitely not lacking power. The trouble is starting her up. We’ve replaced the heater plugs and injectors but that hasn’t solved the problem. We also installed a heater button to manually preheat the engine but on cold days you have to hold the button down for up to a minute or more – not particularly good for the battery which we have to remove and charge every two weeks or so.
Chase Bryce-Rogers

I’d like to know the pros and cons of filling my tyres with nitrogen instead of regular air. It seems the advertised benefits are true, but I’m unclear as to whether or not it makes a huge difference and if it would be beneficial in my 4x4’s case, especially considering the possible dangers of mixing nitrogen with normal air.
Apparently, mixing air with nitrogen leads to density differences and therefore pressure variations, uneven tyre wear and reduced tyre lifespan. If this is true, could I not re-inflate my nitrogen-filled tyres with my portable air compressor? Is the advice we’re getting worth considering?
Gareth Coats

My ’02 Colt Clubcab 2.8 TDI with 110 000 km has just developed a strange problem: the green 4WD light refuses to turn off when 2WD is selected. I’ve tried everything – bringing the vehicle to a complete stop, engaging / disengaging low-range, reversing… everything, but the light stays on. What could be the cause of this problem?
What’s more, when the vehicle does finally go into 2WD it takes a long time to re-engage 4WD, especially if I’ve driven the vehicle long distances – as I found after getting stuck in a mud hole in Chobe.
Keith Booysen

I’d like to ensure that my Hilux 3.0 D-4D is completely waterproof in deep river crossings. How do I do this?
Rudy Coetzee

I own an ’05 Land Cruiser Prado with the 1GR-FE 4.0-litre engine and 145 000 km on the clock. I’ve just returned from a trip to the Kaokoveld where the vehicle performed beautifully on some tough terrain – Van Zyl’s Pass, Kunene River track and several riverbeds.
However, on my return trip to JHB I noticed an oil leak between the engine and automatic transmission. The leaking fluid appears to be engine oil; could it be a rear crankshaft oil seal? Is the leak a result of the trip’s toughness, or just luck of the draw? Lastly, is this a common Prado problem?
Graham Murray

I drive a Triton 2.5. I’ve read many arguments for and against blocking off the exhaust bypass valve that re-circulates gases through the combustion chamber to produce cleaner emissions.
By doing this I hope to gain better throttle response and a little more torque between 1 000 and 2 000 rpm, as the Triton struggles in this range. Will this work and would you recommend it? Secondly, and to accomplish the same goal, I’ve heard that one may also explore the possibility of fitting a full free-flow 63 mm exhaust system which would apparently get rid of the hot gases more quickly and reduce back pressure. Will this help to achieve the desired result and would you recommend it?
Nico Swart

I drive an ‘84 Nissan Patrol SWB. It has a limited-slip diff at the rear and nothing up front. If I were to fit a diff-lock to this vehicle would it be advisable to put it at the rear, or should it be installed up front?
If fitted to the front, will the locker affect my vehicle’s turning circle? Also, in terms of diff-locks, what options do I have for the Patrol?
Corné Opperman